11 april 2018 om 23:29 #771057
Don’t Worry, Be Happy 😛
Marc knows13 april 2018 om 18:28 #771108
@aa-t nono sorry mate, its only one for me i make by myself, i know only some cnc guys which are doing in aluminium.
here some next steps from these days13 april 2018 om 23:17 #771119
Too bad 🙂
I see you stripped your frame, what will be the new color?14 april 2018 om 09:51 #771125
This is a good question, my intention was to make it in an old grey from a T2 VW Bully14 april 2018 om 11:44 #771127
Hardcore 😎 Looking Good14 april 2018 om 13:27 #771129
I go offtopic one more time, so everybody can read it.
Offcourse I will not ban you from the Vct tour, But I knew saying this would give you that last push to make a better clutch housing
And im glad to see you did. Cause the chance that you would make the finish with a original housing would be slim to none.
Cause you call your engine a cruiser. I call it a beast 😈
But its maybe not a bad idea to advice everybody with a powerfull engine to come with a reinforced clutch housing at the vct.
Cant wait to see and hear the beast in action at the Vct14 april 2018 om 19:06 #771134
ahhh okay, than i just missunderstand you a bit.
But thanks for pushing me 🙂 sometimes i think i need that hehe
today i changed the shock adsorber bracket,
i can tell you that this is real shitty work! because the bolt is hardened at the welding.
phuuuu, im a lucky one because i got a mitt and i could mill it away hehe
and i made some nice adapters for my blinker at the handle bar 🙂 i love it.
14 april 2018 om 19:21 #771135
Need to rehabilitate?
15 april 2018 om 11:17 #771154
THX, ja Björn needs to rehab. 🙂
this happends when big guys tuch tools which they better not use haha15 april 2018 om 15:58 #771160
Nice work, those shock absorber brackets will be a lot better 🙂
Nice welding too.18 april 2018 om 09:39 #771248
ja thank you verry much, i like my welding too hehe
Im sure i can do it much better but for this i need better tools like a better welding machine from Fronius etz. or which is also very important a special water cooled grinding machine for the Wolfram electrode. i do with a normal grinder which makes the tip not that sharp as with the special tool…….. and some more points. 🙂
time is tikking…. jesterday i made everything nice for the painter, its going to be a RAL 7015 grey.
hopefull its the right colour i want 😀19 april 2018 om 17:53 #771265
Maybe a small tip for grinding your wolfram electrode. You might already do it like this but I see a lot of professional welders doing it the wrong way.
Point the electrode downward during grinding like this:
Your grinding stone/belt makes little grooves in the electrode. Holding it like this makes it follow those grooves thus making it a little bit sharper.
It’s so easy to explain in your own language so I hope you know what I mean 🙂
When can you pickup the painted parts?19 april 2018 om 19:11 #771279
this is a really good TIP, i already do it like that but i see you are also a little welder.
there is nothing better as the special grinder for that wolfram electrodes, like a needle after grinding 🙂
today i brought the parts to the sandblaster, and here we have the first disaster, he got a big order to blast 3000 radiator waaaaaa, so he needs 2 – 3 weeks till my things can be done.
and same with my painter, he also needs 4-5 weeks, so i ordered jesterday alot color and do everything by myself i think.
After painting i can say i did the hole bike and nobody else hehe
after the sandblasting i got back in the garage and made first of all an adapter for my innerrotor CDI.
after that i drilled the magnets for my Koso speedo 🙂 niceeeeeeeeeee i tell you.
and because i got a run today i tuned the vario axle.
i made a bushing out of the Mono axle and put it over the vario axle, damn its like it has to be so hehe
better bearing, longer and wabbles less, damn nice.
here the piuctures19 april 2018 om 20:28 #771281
This topic is so enjoyable…..
I,m impressed by your creativity.
Have you already started with the drive of the water pump? Is he driven on your crankshaft or on the nut of the rear wheel.?20 april 2018 om 12:35 #771296
On the rear wheel nut? did you ever seen something like that? me not.
But its a nice idea. but this would mean if you are not driving its not cooling.
No i want to go on the Crankshaft. to be more exact, i want to place the O-Ring between strator and the back side of the Variator.
i made a teat with a radius on the inner rotor, there is where i want to place the O-Ring.
At the hole motor is this the most dangerous place i think.
I dont make me worries about the ignition or zylinder or the self made crank case.
i only make me worries about that F**** O-Ring, will it live a long life with an engine that rotates around 9000rpm?
when this ring breaks apart the water starts to boil immediatly i think.
So my plan is to test it like this and take everytime 10 o-rings and a bootle of water with me 😀 haha
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